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Koufonissia
The Aegean wilderness
Platya Pounta, or Italian Woman, is the most popular beach of Koufonissi.
Platya Pounta, or Italian Woman, is the most popular beach of Koufonissi.
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The two Koufonissia islands lie southeast of Naxos and west of Amorgos. There are two Koufonissia: Pano ("Upper") Koufonissi, or just Koufonissi, and Kato ("Lower") Koufonissi, which are separated by a narrow, 200 meter (yard) isthmus. Koufonissia also include the tiny, uninhabited island of Keros, which is a protected archeological site from which a good number of ancient Cycladic art has been excavated in the 20th century.

Koufonissi is no more than 4 square kilometers and it is one of the smallest of the Cyclades, with about 300 permanent residents. Most of them are fishermen and the island is famous for its plentiful fresh catch throughout the year. Koufonissi is the most popular of the so-called Small Cyclades and, in the last few years, a favorite destination among those who seek quiet and isolation in the summer, without demanding too many amenities.

Many call it "one of the last heavens on earth" but there are, relatively speaking, so many who think so that it probably is no more. Today the island has been "discovered" and it is not as sparsely populated in the summer months. Nevertheless, Koufonissia feature a number of attractions, including a leisurely pace, fresh fish and nice beaches.

Chora is the only village on the islands and it is built on the southwest coast of Koufonissi, right on the picturesque and tiny harbor. The main road, east of Chora, that extends for no more than a few kilometers, is where most of the accommodations are.

The road ends up at Foinikas, or Harokopos, beach. From there, on foot, you can reach Fanos beach and, after that, Platia Pounta, or Italian Woman, the most popular of Koufonissi beaches, named after a local resident who hailed from Italy.

Continuing on, past Italian Woman, you reach the area known as "piscines", or "cisterns". It consists of a number of openings on the rugged rock, that are filled with calm sea water and attracts visitors who come here for the natural wonder and also to swim. Finally, at the north end of the island, you will come across Pori, a nice sandy beach, and picture-perfect cape Xylovatis.

Koufonissi features a good number of rooms for rent and some small hotels. The restaurants and tavernas are truly noteworthy.

Kato Koufonissi is almost deserted and can be reached by small caique, which, in the summer, leaves the harbor three times daily. Your landmark on Kato Koufonissi is the church of Virgin Mary, or Panagia, that stands on ancient ruins, at the end of the harbor.

On August 15, the Day of the Annunciation, the church holds a large celebration with song and dance and food for everyone. The road that ends at the harbor is the only one on the island and your access to the beaches. It takes about 15 to 30 minutes by foot to reach them, but it is certainly worthwhile.
The Highlights
  • The beaches on both islands.
  • The fresh fish and seafood that are abundant on the island's taverns.
We Recommend
  • Visit Pori and explore Gala, at the end of the cape.
  • Visit Kato Koufonisi for swimming in the wonderful beaches and eat at the one and only tavern of the island.
  • Eat at Kapetan Nikolas tavern on Koufonissi.
We Do Not Recommend
  • Coming in August without having made reservations.
  • Coming here for more than 2-3 days if your idea of a holiday is partying and mingling.
Read our users' reviews...
An incredible week in Koufonissia
We just returned from an incredible week in Koufonissia. Nevertheless, the place is crowded. The "Italians", or Platia Pounta, beach was literally packed with people, a strange mix of Greek families with kids and "alternative" nudists. You cannot escape the "torture" of the paddle ball. At one point we were surrounded by 4 groups of maniacs who were playing paddle ball and we couldn't even hear the surf from all the noise they were making. The only solution was our MP3 players, tuned to relaxing sounds. The sea water was just amazing, crystal clear, blue-green and ... freezing. The only real issue was the wind, lots of wind, so much so that, at the beach, you cannot escape lashes of sand on your face. Have a sweater handy at night. Nonetheless, the surfers did not complain.

I highly recommend swimming combined with an afternoon meal, at Finikas beach. For dessert and milkshakes, Kalamia, near the harbor (where they also offer internet connecitons at €6 per hour). We would also like to mention "Atairiastoi" restaurant, for special dishes, and "Remezzo", for seafood pasta. There certainly are other nice restaurants; be adventurous.

As far as accommodations, if you don't insist on Chora, the harbor, the taverns and the bars, stay at Finikas: absolute relaxation. Otherwise, pick the harbor: we stayed at Sophia's rooms. The surf was breaking at the building's foundations and everything was just a few steps away. Both cost €55. We never went to see Galina Spitakia, a new, dollhouse-like hotel complex, with traditional decoration.

Have a nice holiday
Chris Korakas, Greece

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Useful Information
The country code for Greece is 0030 (from the US and Canada: 01130).
Police Station
The police station is by the harbor (22850 71375).
Hospital
There is a doctor on the island that provides first aid (22850 71370).
Tourist Agency
Katerina Prassinos Travel Agency (22850 71438) and KoufonissiaTours (22850 74091, www.koufonissiatours.gr).
Internet Cafe
There are no Internet cafes on Koufonissia.
Bus Depot
There are no buses on the island.
Car Rental
There are no car rentals. Only motorbike rentals through the travel agencies above.
Bank
There are no banks on Koufonissi but there is an ATM of Agrotiki Bank next to the Post Office.